On Apr 6, 5:38 am, bugbear wrote:
> Over the weekend I need to take a photograph
> of the makers details, etched into a vintage (wood cutting) hand saw.
>
> This went "OK", but was trickly since the saw
> is (after a clean up) a fairly reflective piece of metal.
>
> I eventually lift up a white sheet (AKA diffuse reflector),
> and then angled the saw-blade so I was imaging a reflection
> (in the blade) of the diffuser.
>
> Since the saw was at an angle to the camera, I got an unwanted
> perspective shift in the resulting image. Happily,
> with a flat subject, it is trivial to use software (I used Gimp)
> to correct the perspective shift, leaving a nicely
> lit (nearly...) geometrically correct result.
>
> But how would one photograph (e.g.) a simple
> silver snuff box, with some writing engraved
> in?
>
> BugBear
It depends on what you are trying to do. There are a variety of
techniques but all depend on one thing -- you need to create a world
of light and no-light.
Generally, a well-diffused lighting source, like a light tent works
well and you can control the light. That's the easiest. Position the
box, position the camera, then position the light so it lights up
everything but doesn't cause any glare on the box. Move the light
around until you are satisfied.
A second basic technique is to take a big piece of black board/
cardboard and poke a hole in it to put your lens through -- flat black
to avoid any reflections. Then position 2 or 3 non-diffused lights on
the item -- again being careful to avoid glare (or use a polarizing
filter). Other than the lights, you need COMPLETE darkness. Use a
black tent or a large, open space. This is harder but creates a more
dynamic result. It also works better with glass. If you can get the
lighting just right, sometimes a star filter (instead of a polarizing
filter) will add some nice kick.
>> Stay informed about: taking/lighting highly reflective subjects?