Pentax K Series - First Year Opinions

"RonB" <rbrogan.RemoveThis@cox.net> wrote in message
news:iptYh.201971$Pi4.118100@newsfe14.lga...
> Hey thanks. I have been lusting over the K10D but I really think the K100
> is enough. I, like you, have old Pentax bodies and lenses that are
> driving me toward a Pentax buy. Plus I have been very happy with the old
> KX and K1000s that I still use. I also own a couple of the late 70's/early
> 80's vintage Series I vivitars that are very good lenses (70-210 and f1.9
> 28mm)
>
> RonB


I've had my K100D for 7 months now and it can really do the business
quality-wise, even in jpg but you do have to learn its little foibles. The
very best quality will require RAW and Silkypix converter plus a good lens,
but good lenses include £35 ebay goodies like a 50mm A f1.7 I picked up and
there's a free Silkypix version that covers the bare essentials. Manual
focus is fairly easy with practice using a bright old lens because you get
a nice smooth long throw focus ring and the AF confirmation light still
flashes and is correct plus the viewfinder is decent. Prime lenses get
image stabilisation, so you're suddenly in a different league for low
natural light photos at lowish cost.

Jpgs are fine, but I prefer to keep the contrast and sharpening right down,
saturation 0, and give each picture some sharpening afterwards with a mix of
large radius contrast boost and small radius edge enhancement, it just looks
so much better that way but that's the same with most cameras that haven't
over processed (and usually ruined IMHO) the jpgs. If not post processing I
would use Saturation 0, Sharpening +1, Contrast -1 and exposure
compensation -0.3EV.

Problems?

Having to be aware that the Auto WB doesn't cover a wide range so it won't
de-yellow tungsten lighting, so manual WB or the fixed tungsten WB or RAW
are the order of the day for tungsten lighting. AWB works well in daylight,
bright or shaded but it's best to use the fixed WB settings. Cloudy and
Daylight cover most situations. People have complained about the WB not
automatically going to flash WB when the flash is raised, but colours seem
fine to me with flash if the camera is left in Cloudy WB which also works
very well indoors anyway with dull natural lighting, so that saves having to
fiddle with WB settings if taking a mix of flash and non flash shots.

The battery compartment is bound to wobble slightly if you look at it's
sprung loaded design, but it looks strong enough with metal hinges and
several catches, it's never caused any real problems for me, perhaps they
could have put a stronger spring in. The camera overall is very well made,
with a solid feel to it.

No focus assist light unless you buy a flash. The internal flash works when
raised as a focus assist light and works OK at short distances but is
annoying and only comes on when it wants to i.e. when it's dark, it can't be
forced on. Low light auto focusing is OK though but not quick and you
definitely need to aim at something with some contrast. With a bit of light
and a good lens it's fast enough though and always accurate bit it's a bit
noisy.

SR works well especially at distance, not perfect but a definite aid to not
losing shots. It's not so much help for macro but Pentax admit that, it's
obvious really when the system works by correcting for angular camera
movements and yet with macro the main 'shake' is caused by translational
movement (up/down/left/right) relative to the subject, not angular movement.

Conclusion?
It's a great camera if you take the time to learn it.
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