Photo tips for Antarctica?

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 >> Stay informed about: Photo tips for Antarctica? 

On Nov 2, 2:28 pm, Joell Jorgensen <jj97170....RemoveThis@gmail.com> wrote:
> On Fri, 02 Nov 2007 10:55:21 -0700, Pat <gro....RemoveThis@artisticphotography.us> wrote:
> >On Nov 2, 1:43 pm, Kulvinder Singh Matharu <real-address-
> >in-...@lineone.net> wrote:
> >> Hi All,
>
> >> Just booked to go to cruising + zodiac landings to Antarctica (South
> >> Shetlands, Peninsular, etc) next month.
>
> >> I'm a Canon EOS 30D user and have the following lenses:
>
> >> 16-35mm f2.8 L USM
>
> >> 28-135mm f3.5-5.6 IS USM
>
> >> 70-200m f2.8 L USM
>
> >> 70-300m f4-5.6 IS USM
>
> >> I'll probably take all lenses except for the 70-200m f2.8 (too
> >> heavy!).
>
> >> Do you have tips/recommendations for any particular equipment that
> >> would be useful (filters, tripods, plastic bags, clothing, remote
> >> control, don't take a lens, etc), and also if there are any special
> >> photography techniques for the Antarctic that I need to pay
> >> particular attention to?
>
> >> Also, due to the large investment already made for the trip, would an
> >> additional comparatively small outlay on a Canon 40D be wise
> >> especially in terms of having a spare camera in case the other fails?
>
> >> Thanks in advance!
>
> >> Regards,
>
> >> --
> >> Kulvinder Singh Matharu
>
> >> Website :www.metalvortex.com
> >> Contact :www.metalvortex.com/contact/
>
> >> Brain! Brain! What is brain?!
>
> >Two cameras is good. Extra batteries are a must -- they die faster in
> >the cold. Polarizing filters for all of the lenses would be a good
> >idea. Star filters might also be nice. Tripod and QRs for everything
> >might also be good so you're not shaking from the cold -- or at least
> >a monopod.
>
> >Get a pair of mittens with an finger-opening on the palm and a pair of
> >inner gloves -- such as hunters wear, so you can stick your fingertips
> >out when you need to, but have mittens on the rest of the time.
>
> Ditch the DSLR kits entirely. Get a high-quality super-zoom P&S camera, or two,
> that can easily fit in a pocket next to your body. One favorite main camera, one
> for backup. Unless you find a way to strap all your DSLR cameras + lenses next
> to your body or put them in heated bags you're going to run into troubles. All
> the mechanical linkage in the cameras' shutters, mirrors, and the lenses'
> diaphragms will be ready to freeze-up the first time they get cold enough.
> Caused by the most minor of condensation from residual humidity inside of them.
> Or more commonly, they become sluggish and cause errors in exposures and
> anything else that slower reaction times can cause from their
> lubricant-dependent mechanical linkages. I frequently take photos in sub-arctic
> conditions every year. Going out for 5 or more hours in -30 to -40 C. air
> temperatures (-65 C. wind-chills or more) is not uncommon for me. Keep in mind
> that liquid mercury turns into a solid metal at -38 C, food is flash-frozen at
> -28 C. to help keep things in perspective. The number of times that DSLR
> equipment has failed due to cold made me give up on them completely. With a good
> P&S camera all of its electronics and its batteries are kept nice and warm in a
> pocket next to your body, there's also few to no mechanical parts that can be
> affected by the cold. Taking the camera out of a pocket only long enough to take
> some images then put it back where it is warm until the next time you need it.
> Keep several backup sets of batteries in some other pockets next to your body
> too.

Absolutely, positively don't do this!

You want you camera, whether P&S or dSLR to be at ambient air temp for
a number of reasons.

First, if you camera is a big heat source, the heat will distort
things.

Second, and more importantly, taking the camera in and out of heat
will cause condensation in all kinds of places you don't want it and
may freeze your camera into on big block of ice. Think of what
happened to glasses when you want indoors in the winter. You want in
and out and in and out and the condensation will start freezing.
Putting it in and out of your coat is a recipe for disaster.

But the poster raises a good point. It wouldn't hurt to carry a zip-
lock bag (self-sealing plastic bag if you're not in the US) with you
so you can put your camera inside it before you go inside. Then any
condensation will be on the bag, not the camera. Once it warms up,
you can take it out of the bag.
 >> Stay informed about: Photo tips for Antarctica? 

Kulvinder Singh Matharu <real-address-in-sig RemoveThis @lineone.net> wrote:
>Also, due to the large investment already made for the trip, would an
>additional comparatively small outlay on a Canon 40D be wise
>especially in terms of having a spare camera in case the other fails?
>
>Thanks in advance!

Do some research on the history of Canon cameras in the
Antarctic! The extra body is probably a *very* good
idea...

But there is a whole lot more to it than that.
Unfortunately I don't have time to research it well
enough to narrow down some of the details, so I'll make
you a promise: you do the research and come back with a
few details, and I'll tell you what I would do. The
significance is that while I've never been to the
Antarctic, I do test all of my cameras in the Arctic!


What I need to know is the general climate at the
locations you will be visiting at the times that you'll
be there. What is the average temperature at that time
of year, and are these all coastal area. Give me the
latitute of each place, and the expected average
temperature and type and amount of pecipitation for the
month that you'll be visiting. (In essense, is it late
fall or early winter? Does it snow there every day that
month, or rain 1/3rd of the days, or what?) Basically,
you tell me what kind of weather you might see, and I'll
tell you what that means for photography.

--
Floyd L. Davidson <http://www.apaflo.com/floyd_davidson>
Ukpeagvik (Barrow, Alaska) floyd RemoveThis @apaflo.com
 >> Stay informed about: Photo tips for Antarctica? 

Joell Jorgensen <jj97170976 DeleteThis @gmail.com> wrote:
>
>Ditch the DSLR kits entirely. Get a high-quality super-zoom P&S camera, or two,
>that can easily fit in a pocket next to your body. One favorite main camera, one
>for backup. Unless you find a way to strap all your DSLR cameras + lenses next
>to your body or put them in heated bags you're going to run into troubles. All

If it is cold enough to require that, he *absolutely*
will want to be dressed in a parka that is in fact large
enough to tuck a DSLR inside, which will easily keep it
warm enough. If the parka is not large enough, then it
should be traded for one that is, because it's dangerous
to wear an ill fitting parka.

>the mechanical linkage in the cameras' shutters, mirrors, and the lenses'
>diaphragms will be ready to freeze-up the first time they get cold enough.

Long before any linkage freezes up the batteries will
refuse to provide enough power (even if fully charged)
to operate the camera.

Hence except for cameras running on external batteries,
there is no need to even begin considering mechanical
functions.

>Caused by the most minor of condensation from residual humidity inside of them.
>Or more commonly, they become sluggish and cause errors in exposures and
>anything else that slower reaction times can cause from their
>lubricant-dependent mechanical linkages. I frequently take photos in sub-arctic
>conditions every year. Going out for 5 or more hours in -30 to -40 C. air
>temperatures (-65 C. wind-chills or more) is not uncommon for me. Keep in mind
>that liquid mercury turns into a solid metal at -38 C, food is flash-frozen at
>-28 C. to help keep things in perspective.

Goodness!

>The number of times that DSLR
>equipment has failed due to cold made me give up on them completely. With a good
>P&S camera all of its electronics and its batteries are kept nice and warm in a
>pocket next to your body, there's also few to no mechanical parts that can be
>affected by the cold. Taking the camera out of a pocket only long enough to take
>some images then put it back where it is warm until the next time you need it.
>Keep several backup sets of batteries in some other pockets next to your body
>too.

You missed the single most essential item though!

Plastic garbage sacks. Any time a camera or lense is
taken from a cold location to a warm locations it is
essential that it be wrapped up in a water proof
container and allowed to reach a temperature well above
the dew point *before* it is exposed to warm moist air.
That applies to taking a camera from outside at -2C into
any normally heated building, such as a home. The
camera should be stuffed into a plastic bag and kept
there until it warms up.

--
Floyd L. Davidson <http://www.apaflo.com/floyd_davidson>
Ukpeagvik (Barrow, Alaska) floyd DeleteThis @apaflo.com
 >> Stay informed about: Photo tips for Antarctica? 

Pat wrote:

> Two cameras is good. Extra batteries are a must -- they die faster in
> the cold. Polarizing filters for all of the lenses would be a good
> idea. Star filters might also be nice. Tripod and QRs for everything
> might also be good so you're not shaking from the cold -- or at least
> a monopod.
>
> Get a pair of mittens with an finger-opening on the palm and a pair of
> inner gloves -- such as hunters wear, so you can stick your fingertips
> out when you need to, but have mittens on the rest of the time.

All good ideas. I'd also recommend a remote shutter release (Canon
TC80N3 or chinese clone available on ebay for about $70 + $20
shipping). This way you can keep your hands in your pockets if need be
and still get a shot without shaking the camera.



--
 >> Stay informed about: Photo tips for Antarctica? 

On Fri, 02 Nov 2007 10:55:21 -0700, Pat <groups DeleteThis @artisticphotography.us> wrote:

>On Nov 2, 1:43 pm, Kulvinder Singh Matharu <real-address-
>in-...@lineone.net> wrote:
>> Hi All,
>>
>> Just booked to go to cruising + zodiac landings to Antarctica (South
>> Shetlands, Peninsular, etc) next month.
>>
>> I'm a Canon EOS 30D user and have the following lenses:
>>
>> 16-35mm f2.8 L USM
>>
>> 28-135mm f3.5-5.6 IS USM
>>
>> 70-200m f2.8 L USM
>>
>> 70-300m f4-5.6 IS USM
>>
>> I'll probably take all lenses except for the 70-200m f2.8 (too
>> heavy!).
>>
>> Do you have tips/recommendations for any particular equipment that
>> would be useful (filters, tripods, plastic bags, clothing, remote
>> control, don't take a lens, etc), and also if there are any special
>> photography techniques for the Antarctic that I need to pay
>> particular attention to?
>>
>> Also, due to the large investment already made for the trip, would an
>> additional comparatively small outlay on a Canon 40D be wise
>> especially in terms of having a spare camera in case the other fails?
>>
>> Thanks in advance!
>>
>> Regards,
>>
>> --
>> Kulvinder Singh Matharu
>>
>> Website :www.metalvortex.com
>> Contact :www.metalvortex.com/contact/
>>
>> Brain! Brain! What is brain?!
>
>Two cameras is good. Extra batteries are a must -- they die faster in
>the cold. Polarizing filters for all of the lenses would be a good
>idea. Star filters might also be nice. Tripod and QRs for everything
>might also be good so you're not shaking from the cold -- or at least
>a monopod.
>
>Get a pair of mittens with an finger-opening on the palm and a pair of
>inner gloves -- such as hunters wear, so you can stick your fingertips
>out when you need to, but have mittens on the rest of the time.

Ditch the DSLR kits entirely. Get a high-quality super-zoom P&S camera, or two,
that can easily fit in a pocket next to your body. One favorite main camera, one
for backup. Unless you find a way to strap all your DSLR cameras + lenses next
to your body or put them in heated bags you're going to run into troubles. All
the mechanical linkage in the cameras' shutters, mirrors, and the lenses'
diaphragms will be ready to freeze-up the first time they get cold enough.
Caused by the most minor of condensation from residual humidity inside of them.
Or more commonly, they become sluggish and cause errors in exposures and
anything else that slower reaction times can cause from their
lubricant-dependent mechanical linkages. I frequently take photos in sub-arctic
conditions every year. Going out for 5 or more hours in -30 to -40 C. air
temperatures (-65 C. wind-chills or more) is not uncommon for me. Keep in mind
that liquid mercury turns into a solid metal at -38 C, food is flash-frozen at
-28 C. to help keep things in perspective. The number of times that DSLR
equipment has failed due to cold made me give up on them completely. With a good
P&S camera all of its electronics and its batteries are kept nice and warm in a
pocket next to your body, there's also few to no mechanical parts that can be
affected by the cold. Taking the camera out of a pocket only long enough to take
some images then put it back where it is warm until the next time you need it.
Keep several backup sets of batteries in some other pockets next to your body
too.
 >> Stay informed about: Photo tips for Antarctica? 

Joell Jorgensen wrote:
> On Fri, 02 Nov 2007 10:55:21 -0700, Pat <groups DeleteThis @artisticphotography.us> wrote:

>> Two cameras is good. Extra batteries are a must -- they die faster in
>> the cold. Polarizing filters for all of the lenses would be a good
>> idea. Star filters might also be nice. Tripod and QRs for everything
>> might also be good so you're not shaking from the cold -- or at least
>> a monopod.
>>
>> Get a pair of mittens with an finger-opening on the palm and a pair of
>> inner gloves -- such as hunters wear, so you can stick your fingertips
>> out when you need to, but have mittens on the rest of the time.
>
> Ditch the DSLR kits entirely. Get a high-quality super-zoom P&S camera, or two,
> that can easily fit in a pocket next to your body. One favorite main camera, one
> for backup. Unless you find a way to strap all your DSLR cameras + lenses next
> to your body or put them in heated bags you're going to run into troubles. All
> the mechanical linkage in the cameras' shutters, mirrors, and the lenses'
> diaphragms will be ready to freeze-up the first time they get cold enough.
> Caused by the most minor of condensation from residual humidity inside of them.
> Or more commonly, they become sluggish and cause errors in exposures and
> anything else that slower reaction times can cause from their
> lubricant-dependent mechanical linkages. I frequently take photos in sub-arctic
> conditions every year. Going out for 5 or more hours in -30 to -40 C. air
> temperatures (-65 C. wind-chills or more) is not uncommon for me. Keep in mind
> that liquid mercury turns into a solid metal at -38 C, food is flash-frozen at
> -28 C. to help keep things in perspective. The number of times that DSLR
> equipment has failed due to cold made me give up on them completely. With a good
> P&S camera all of its electronics and its batteries are kept nice and warm in a
> pocket next to your body, there's also few to no mechanical parts that can be
> affected by the cold. Taking the camera out of a pocket only long enough to take
> some images then put it back where it is warm until the next time you need it.
> Keep several backup sets of batteries in some other pockets next to your body
> too.
>

Isn't this a bit extreme for a cruise with occasional Zodiac landings? I
mean the part about ditching the SLRs altogether. The P+S is great for
the on shore excursions, but I doubt he'll encounter the length and
breadth of the conditions you, Joell, encounter.

Anyway, bon voyage, and do post pix when you get back!

--
John McWilliams

I know that you believe you understood what you think I said, but I'm
not sure you realize that what you heard is not what I meant.
 >> Stay informed about: Photo tips for Antarctica? 

Pat <groups.RemoveThis@artisticphotography.us> wrote:
>
>Absolutely, positively don't do this!

Well, don't do about half of it...

>You want you camera, whether P&S or dSLR to be at ambient air temp for
>a number of reasons.

Oh?

>First, if you camera is a big heat source, the heat will distort
>things.

Oh? Can you explain that in more detail, as I can't figure out
what you mean.

>Second, and more importantly, taking the camera in and out of heat
>will cause condensation in all kinds of places you don't want it and
>may freeze your camera into on big block of ice. Think of what
>happened to glasses when you want indoors in the winter. You want in
>and out and in and out and the condensation will start freezing.

You are almost right in what you say above. What is
missing is that it is *not* the heat which is the
problem, but the moisture content of the air. Hence, it
is a bad idea to bring a camera into a warm house,
because almost invariably there is a very significant
amount of moisture in the warm air inside the house.

However, not all warm places necessarily have moisture.
If the outside (dry) air is heated _without_ adding
moisture, then it simply is not a problem.

There are at least two times that a person might
encounter such conditions. One is a vehicle. If it is
full of people, and has been warm for a couple hours or
more, then it might well have a lot of moisture (look at
the windows to see!). But if there are only one or two
people in it, and if it was just now warmed up, it will
*not* be loaded with moisture. (If the windows aren't
getting "steamed", neither will a camera.)

The other place where one most likely (but not always)
will *not* see moist air just because it is warm... is
inside their own coat. If you aren't out running and
sweating, it will not be moist.

>Putting it in and out of your coat is a recipe for disaster.

It's the best way to go, and in no way is it a recipe
for disaster.

>But the poster raises a good point. It wouldn't hurt to carry a zip-
>lock bag (self-sealing plastic bag if you're not in the US) with you
>so you can put your camera inside it before you go inside. Then any
>condensation will be on the bag, not the camera. Once it warms up,
>you can take it out of the bag.

Ziplock bags are okay, but they are best for stowing
lenses and other small items in. The best solution is a
roll of garbage bags. The "Tall Kitchen" bags are
great, though even a grocery bag (or two) will do
nicely. It doesn't have to be air tight, it just has to
keep the outside air off the camera. So an open ended
bag that is simply wrapped around the camera and then
left in one place or an hour or two is a great plenty.

--
Floyd L. Davidson <http://www.apaflo.com/floyd_davidson>
Ukpeagvik (Barrow, Alaska) floyd.RemoveThis@apaflo.com
 >> Stay informed about: Photo tips for Antarctica? 

Joell Jorgensen <jj97170976 RemoveThis @gmail.com> wrote:
>
>ONLY if you start out with your camera at ambient air temperature. If you
>started out at ambient air-temp with your camera in arctic conditions it
>wouldn't even work due to the batteries, mechanics, and other electronics being
>unable to perform.
>
>You've obviously never used a camera under extreme weather conditions and are
>only offering you foolish advice from what you only think should work, but would
>cause nothing but problems for those under real circumstances.

I wasn't much impressed with what either of you had to
say, so I'm not inclined to advise the OP to believe
either of you.

>>Second, and more importantly, taking the camera in and out of heat
>>will cause condensation in all kinds of places you don't want it and
>>may freeze your camera into on big block of ice. Think of what
>>happened to glasses when you want indoors in the winter. You want in
>>and out and in and out and the condensation will start freezing.
>>Putting it in and out of your coat is a recipe for disaster.
>
>WRONG. The only time condensation happens is when the surface is COOLER than the
>ambient air-temperatures, and only then when the temperature of that surface is
>below the dew-point of the surrounding air. Taking the camera out of your pocket
>just long enough to take a photo or photos will not allow the camera to cool
>down sufficiently to cause condensation when putting it back in your pocket.
>
>It's obvious you've never done this and have zero experience with this. You are
>only aping words you've read by some other moron online somewhere. Please
>refrain from offering your foolish advice so you aren't wasting the time of
>people like me who have to correct your annoying ignorance and misinformation.

The fact is that what he said was correct. You didn't
read it well.

If you go inside and condensate forms, and then you go
outside... it freezes. You'll endup with not just
fogged glasses, but glasses with ice on them.

His mistake, which you seem to have entirely missed, is
that the above happens when you go into and out of a
nice warm *moist* house... but inside your coat is
usually not a moist place, because all of the air inside
your coat was cold to start with and has no moisture
content. Unless you are doing serious physical
excercise and sweating profusely, there is no danger in
taking a camera into and then out of a coat repeatedly.

>>But the poster raises a good point. It wouldn't hurt to carry a zip-
>>lock bag (self-sealing plastic bag if you're not in the US) with you
>>so you can put your camera inside it before you go inside. Then any
>>condensation will be on the bag, not the camera. Once it warms up,
>>you can take it out of the bag.
>
>At last, you finally make one important point. The best situation of all is to
>enclose your camera in a harsh-environment cover BEFORE taking it outside, BUT
>making sure you trap some of the COLD less humid air inside of the bag just as
>you venture out.

What are you talking about?

>Then keeping the camera warm while surrounded by the dryer air
>(that you trapped from the outside air) will have no effect. If you forget to do
>this then make sure you trap some of that cold dry air inside the bag BEFORE you
>bring it inside to warm up again.
>
>Rule 1 is to always keep the dryer air to the camera side, no matter its
>temperature.

But that wasn't accomplished by what you described
above.

>Rule 2 is to always keep the camera warmer (above the dew-point) than the
>ambient air so any humidity in that air can't condense on its surfaces.

Exactly. But of course that is only necessary if there
actually is some moisture in the air, and the camera is
significantly colder than the air. If you are outside
in a cool climate, it simply is not a problem *until* you
go inside of a warm moist house.

Give *no* thought to any "harsh-environment cover",
whatever that is, on the way *out* the door! At least not
other than by making sure you will have something handy when
you come back and want to go inside... because that's when
it is needed.

>Rule #3, someone please shoot idiots, like Pat, that reply to posts where I have
>to then waste another 15 minutes of my time trying to REcorrect all their
>amazing stupidity and BAD information.

He wasn't 100% correct, but he did better than you!

Now, tell me... just how many times have you actually
*seen* that -65C windchill you mentioned????

--
Floyd L. Davidson <http://www.apaflo.com/floyd_davidson>
Ukpeagvik (Barrow, Alaska) floyd RemoveThis @apaflo.com
 >> Stay informed about: Photo tips for Antarctica? 

Kulvinder Singh Matharu wrote:
> Hi All,
>
> Just booked to go to cruising + zodiac landings to Antarctica (South
> Shetlands, Peninsular, etc) next month.
>
> I'm a Canon EOS 30D user and have the following lenses:
>
> 16-35mm f2.8 L USM
>
> 28-135mm f3.5-5.6 IS USM
>
> 70-200m f2.8 L USM
>
> 70-300m f4-5.6 IS USM
>
> I'll probably take all lenses except for the 70-200m f2.8 (too
> heavy!).
>
> Do you have tips/recommendations for any particular equipment that
> would be useful (filters, tripods, plastic bags, clothing, remote
> control, don't take a lens, etc), and also if there are any special
> photography techniques for the Antarctic that I need to pay
> particular attention to?
>
> Also, due to the large investment already made for the trip, would an
> additional comparatively small outlay on a Canon 40D be wise
> especially in terms of having a spare camera in case the other fails?
>
> Thanks in advance!
>
> Regards,
>
Your 70-200 f/2.8 L is a better lens than the 70-300.
Is the 70-200 IS?

Regarding cold, the idea of putting equipment in waterproof
bags, like zip lock bags is good, but the idea of putting
air, dry or otherwise is not a good idea. It is best to
minimize air, as any air can include moisture. Air has
minimal insulating properties and the bag will do more
than the air. I work with materials at cryogenic temperatures
(temps below -200 C) every week, and build my own environment
chambers. Antarctica is on my list of places to go.
Do take a backup camera. The other problem not mentioned,
which is more serious than moisture is the lubricants
in the camera and lenses. They can freeze up. Another issue
not yet mentioned is the LCD freezes, so you might lose
any LCD views if the camera gets too cold. You might check
a photo repair shop about winterizing your gear. They remove
lubricants but that increases wear, so when you get back,
you might want your gear re-lubricated.
Have fun and let us know how the trip goes.

Roger
 >> Stay informed about: Photo tips for Antarctica? 

On Nov 2, 8:46 pm, "Roger N. Clark (change username to rnclark)"
<usern... RemoveThis @qwest.net> wrote:
> Kulvinder Singh Matharu wrote:
> > Hi All,
>
> > Just booked to go to cruising + zodiac landings to Antarctica (South
> > Shetlands, Peninsular, etc) next month.
>
> > I'm a Canon EOS 30D user and have the following lenses:
>
> > 16-35mm f2.8 L USM
>
> > 28-135mm f3.5-5.6 IS USM
>
> > 70-200m f2.8 L USM
>
> > 70-300m f4-5.6 IS USM
>
> > I'll probably take all lenses except for the 70-200m f2.8 (too
> > heavy!).
>
> > Do you have tips/recommendations for any particular equipment that
> > would be useful (filters, tripods, plastic bags, clothing, remote
> > control, don't take a lens, etc), and also if there are any special
> > photography techniques for the Antarctic that I need to pay
> > particular attention to?
>
> > Also, due to the large investment already made for the trip, would an
> > additional comparatively small outlay on a Canon 40D be wise
> > especially in terms of having a spare camera in case the other fails?
>
> > Thanks in advance!
>
> > Regards,
>
> Your 70-200 f/2.8 L is a better lens than the 70-300.
> Is the 70-200 IS?
>
> Regarding cold, the idea of putting equipment in waterproof
> bags, like zip lock bags is good, but the idea of putting
> air, dry or otherwise is not a good idea. It is best to
> minimize air, as any air can include moisture. Air has
> minimal insulating properties and the bag will do more
> than the air. I work with materials at cryogenic temperatures
> (temps below -200 C) every week, and build my own environment
> chambers. Antarctica is on my list of places to go.
> Do take a backup camera. The other problem not mentioned,
> which is more serious than moisture is the lubricants
> in the camera and lenses. They can freeze up. Another issue
> not yet mentioned is the LCD freezes, so you might lose
> any LCD views if the camera gets too cold. You might check
> a photo repair shop about winterizing your gear. They remove
> lubricants but that increases wear, so when you get back,
> you might want your gear re-lubricated.
> Have fun and let us know how the trip goes.
>
> Roger

I hadn't thought about the LCD issue, but you're right. I've been in
cold enough situation where the LCD on watches and stuff
"disappeared". I would assume the same would apply to cameras. I
haven't shot much in temps under -10F lately, and things worked okay
at that temp.

Another thing to consider would be brittleness. The OP should look
for anything that would be sticks out, etc. and could be easily broken
at those low temps.

They used to make an item for batteries where you taped the battery in
your armpit and ran a wire to the camera. It kept the battery warm.
Do they still make something like that? I haven't seen one in years
but it would be helpful.
 >> Stay informed about: Photo tips for Antarctica? 

"Kulvinder Singh Matharu" <real-address-in-sig.TakeThisOut@lineone.net> wrote in message
news:1lmmi3997v50ofotffv80uigts386k8l9b@4ax.com...
> Hi All,
>
> Just booked to go to cruising + zodiac landings to Antarctica (South
> Shetlands, Peninsular, etc) next month.
>
> I'm a Canon EOS 30D user and have the following lenses:
>
> 16-35mm f2.8 L USM
>
> 28-135mm f3.5-5.6 IS USM
>
> 70-200m f2.8 L USM
>
> 70-300m f4-5.6 IS USM
>
> I'll probably take all lenses except for the 70-200m f2.8 (too
> heavy!).
>
Take it - or get a 70-200 f4 IS L. It's too good a lens to leave behind.

John
 >> Stay informed about: Photo tips for Antarctica? 

On Nov 2, 8:23 pm, "Roger N. Clark (change username to rnclark)"
<usern....DeleteThis@qwest.net> wrote:
> Joell Jorgensen wrote:
> > On Fri, 02 Nov 2007 14:54:50 -0700, Pat <gro....DeleteThis@artisticphotography.us> wrote:
>
> >> On Nov 2, 2:28 pm, Joell Jorgensen <jj97170....DeleteThis@gmail.com> wrote:
> >>> On Fri, 02 Nov 2007 10:55:21 -0700, Pat <gro....DeleteThis@artisticphotography.us> wrote:
> >>>> On Nov 2, 1:43 pm, Kulvinder Singh Matharu <real-address-
> >>>> in-....DeleteThis@lineone.net> wrote:
> >>>>> Hi All,
> >>>>> Just booked to go to cruising + zodiac landings to Antarctica (South
> >>>>> Shetlands, Peninsular, etc) next month.
> >>>>> I'm a Canon EOS 30D user and have the following lenses:
> >>>>> 16-35mm f2.8 L USM
> >>>>> 28-135mm f3.5-5.6 IS USM
> >>>>> 70-200m f2.8 L USM
> >>>>> 70-300m f4-5.6 IS USM
> >>>>> I'll probably take all lenses except for the 70-200m f2.8 (too
> >>>>> heavy!).
> >>>>> Do you have tips/recommendations for any particular equipment that
> >>>>> would be useful (filters, tripods, plastic bags, clothing, remote
> >>>>> control, don't take a lens, etc), and also if there are any special
> >>>>> photography techniques for the Antarctic that I need to pay
> >>>>> particular attention to?
> >>>>> Also, due to the large investment already made for the trip, would an
> >>>>> additional comparatively small outlay on a Canon 40D be wise
> >>>>> especially in terms of having a spare camera in case the other fails?
> >>>>> Thanks in advance!
> >>>>> Regards,
> >>>>> --
> >>>>> Kulvinder Singh Matharu
> >>>>> Website :www.metalvortex.com
> >>>>> Contact :www.metalvortex.com/contact/
> >>>>> Brain! Brain! What is brain?!
> >>>> Two cameras is good. Extra batteries are a must -- they die faster in
> >>>> the cold. Polarizing filters for all of the lenses would be a good
> >>>> idea. Star filters might also be nice. Tripod and QRs for everything
> >>>> might also be good so you're not shaking from the cold -- or at least
> >>>> a monopod.
> >>>> Get a pair of mittens with an finger-opening on the palm and a pair of
> >>>> inner gloves -- such as hunters wear, so you can stick your fingertips
> >>>> out when you need to, but have mittens on the rest of the time.
> >>> Ditch the DSLR kits entirely. Get a high-quality super-zoom P&S camera, or two,
> >>> that can easily fit in a pocket next to your body. One favorite main camera, one
> >>> for backup. Unless you find a way to strap all your DSLR cameras + lenses next
> >>> to your body or put them in heated bags you're going to run into troubles. All
> >>> the mechanical linkage in the cameras' shutters, mirrors, and the lenses'
> >>> diaphragms will be ready to freeze-up the first time they get cold enough.
> >>> Caused by the most minor of condensation from residual humidity inside of them.
> >>> Or more commonly, they become sluggish and cause errors in exposures and
> >>> anything else that slower reaction times can cause from their
> >>> lubricant-dependent mechanical linkages. I frequently take photos in sub-arctic
> >>> conditions every year. Going out for 5 or more hours in -30 to -40 C. air
> >>> temperatures (-65 C. wind-chills or more) is not uncommon for me. Keep in mind
> >>> that liquid mercury turns into a solid metal at -38 C, food is flash-frozen at
> >>> -28 C. to help keep things in perspective. The number of times that DSLR
> >>> equipment has failed due to cold made me give up on them completely. With a good
> >>> P&S camera all of its electronics and its batteries are kept nice and warm in a
> >>> pocket next to your body, there's also few to no mechanical parts that can be
> >>> affected by the cold. Taking the camera out of a pocket only long enough to take
> >>> some images then put it back where it is warm until the next time you need it.
> >>> Keep several backup sets of batteries in some other pockets next to your body
> >>> too.
> >> Absolutely, positively don't do this!
>
> > WRONG.
>
> >> You want you camera, whether P&S or dSLR to be at ambient air temp for
> >> a number of reasons.
>
> > ONLY if you start out with your camera at ambient air temperature. If you
> > started out at ambient air-temp with your camera in arctic conditions it
> > wouldn't even work due to the batteries, mechanics, and other electronics being
> > unable to perform.
>
> > You've obviously never used a camera under extreme weather conditions and are
> > only offering you foolish advice from what you only think should work, but would
> > cause nothing but problems for those under real circumstances.
>
> >> First, if you camera is a big heat source, the heat will distort
> >> things.
>
> > WRONG. This is only true if there is a huge air-mass if differing air-temps
> > between you and your subject. The heat rising from the top of your camera will
> > have zero effect on the scene in front of the camera. This is the same reason
> > that people with refractor telescopes don't have to wait for their optics to
> > reach ambient air-temps, because of the sealed optics assembly. The converse is
> > not true in a reflecting telescope design, where the warmth from the massive
> > mirror at the base of an open tube can induce air currents into the light path
> > of the subject you are imaging.
>
> > (I so hate having to waste my time correct the obvious errors of the ignorant
> > and foolish with a keyboard, those that are only arm-chair photographers that
> > know nothing about reality, only virtual reality.)
>
> >> Second, and more importantly, taking the camera in and out of heat
> >> will cause condensation in all kinds of places you don't want it and
> >> may freeze your camera into on big block of ice. Think of what
> >> happened to glasses when you want indoors in the winter. You want in
> >> and out and in and out and the condensation will start freezing.
> >> Putting it in and out of your coat is a recipe for disaster.
>
> > WRONG. The only time condensation happens is when the surface is COOLER than the
> > ambient air-temperatures, and only then when the temperature of that surface is
> > below the dew-point of the surrounding air. Taking the camera out of your pocket
> > just long enough to take a photo or photos will not allow the camera to cool
> > down sufficiently to cause condensation when putting it back in your pocket.
>
> > It's obvious you've never done this and have zero experience with this. You are
> > only aping words you've read by some other moron online somewhere. Please
> > refrain from offering your foolish advice so you aren't wasting the time of
> > people like me who have to correct your annoying ignorance and misinformation.
>
> >> But the poster raises a good point. It wouldn't hurt to carry a zip-
> >> lock bag (self-sealing plastic bag if you're not in the US) with you
> >> so you can put your camera inside it before you go inside. Then any
> >> condensation will be on the bag, not the camera. Once it warms up,
> >> you can take it out of the bag.
>
> > At last, you finally make one important point. The best situation of all is to
> > enclose your camera in a harsh-environment cover BEFORE taking it outside, BUT
> > making sure you trap some of the COLD less humid air inside of the bag just as
> > you venture out. Then keeping the camera warm while surrounded by the dryer air
> > (that you trapped from the outside air) will have no effect. If you forget to do
> > this then make sure you trap some of that cold dry air inside the bag BEFORE you
> > bring it inside to warm up again.
>
> > Rule 1 is to always keep the dryer air to the camera side, no matter its
> > temperature.
>
> > Rule 2 is to always keep the camera warmer (above the dew-point) than the
> > ambient air so any humidity in that air can't condense on its surfaces.
>
> > Rule #3, someone please shoot idiots, like Pat, that reply to posts where I have
> > to then waste another 15 minutes of my time trying to REcorrect all their
> > amazing stupidity and BAD information.
>
> Everyone should be aware that this is the infamous P&S troll
> who has been haunting these newsgroups. It constantly changes
> its name. The headers and its style of insults give it away.
> It is best to ignore it.

I was going to respond, point by point but I think I'll take your
advice, instead, and ignore him/her. The OP can decide what advice to
follow, if any.
 >> Stay informed about: Photo tips for Antarctica?