Panasonic FZ-18 v LX-2 v TZ-3

In article <qxu4j.56381$c_1.15085@text.news.blueyonder.co.uk>, David J
Taylor <david-taylor DeleteThis @blueyonder.not-this-bit.nor-this-bit.co.uk> wrote:

> > No mac version of Autostitch, sadly. But the page refers to other
> > related programs. I'll look into them. Thanks!
>
> Use one of the virtual PC programs and you can run Windows on the Mac, at
> least, if you have Intel hardware.

there are plenty of mac native stiching tools. i probably missed some,
but here's a few:
<http://www.ptgui.com/>
<http://www.kekus.com/>
<http://hugin.sourceforge.net/>
<http://stitcher.realviz.com/panorama-software-products/stitcher/stitchi
ng-software.php>
 >> Stay informed about: Panasonic FZ-18 v LX-2 v TZ-3 

AKT wrote:
> David J Taylor
> <david-taylor.RemoveThis@blueyonder.not-this-bit.nor-this-bit.co.uk> wrote:
>
> : We use AutoStitch (free, no skill required!):
>
> No mac version of Autostitch, sadly. But the page refers to other
> related programs. I'll look into them. Thanks!

The Mac can run Windows. There is a tremendous amount of software where
you have no choice but to use Windows. Don't let that stop you. Look at
the plus side, you're able to run programs like Final Cut Pro where the
closest application for a PC is 5x the cost.
 >> Stay informed about: Panasonic FZ-18 v LX-2 v TZ-3 

> : The FZ3 would be my choice...
>
> Great camera and discounted prices are good these days, but one reason
> I had picked the three models named in the subject is for the 28mm wide
> angle. That's why I eliminated Canon G9 etc as well.

None of these has a hot shoe for a flash.
the 5100 Nikon and G9 do if that is important to you it is to me as
otherwise you remain restricted by the built in flash which are not very
powerful.
 >> Stay informed about: Panasonic FZ-18 v LX-2 v TZ-3 

In article <4752cfd9$0$84168$742ec2ed@news.sonic.net>,
SMS éz‰⁄ï∂• ⃠<scharf.steven.TakeThisOut@geemail.com> wrote:

> AKT wrote:
> > David J Taylor
> > <david-taylor.TakeThisOut@blueyonder.not-this-bit.nor-this-bit.co.uk> wrote:
> >
> > : We use AutoStitch (free, no skill required!):
> >
> > No mac version of Autostitch, sadly. But the page refers to other
> > related programs. I'll look into them. Thanks!
>
> The Mac can run Windows. There is a tremendous amount of software where
> you have no choice but to use Windows. Don't let that stop you. Look at
> the plus side, you're able to run programs like Final Cut Pro where the
> closest application for a PC is 5x the cost.

Not sure if it is relevent but the TZ3 comes with Mac OSX software
including Panorama, an app that joins pics together to make a wide or
360? pic

David
 >> Stay informed about: Panasonic FZ-18 v LX-2 v TZ-3 

On Sat, 01 Dec 2007 06:53:07 GMT, "David J Taylor"
<david-taylor.DeleteThis@blueyonder.not-this-bit.nor-this-bit.co.uk> wrote in
<nx74j.55899$c_1.15257@text.news.blueyonder.co.uk>:

>... However, when trying to take pictures of folk
>at an event, for example, stitching multiple 36mm frames is no substitute
>for have a 28mm lens.

Depends on the event, how you shoot, and the stitching software -- I've
gotten some very good results in such cases.

--
Best regards,
John Navas
Panasonic DMC-FZ8 (and several others)
 >> Stay informed about: Panasonic FZ-18 v LX-2 v TZ-3 

John Navas wrote:
> On Sat, 01 Dec 2007 06:53:07 GMT, "David J Taylor"
> <david-taylor.TakeThisOut@blueyonder.not-this-bit.nor-this-bit.co.uk> wrote in
> <nx74j.55899$c_1.15257@text.news.blueyonder.co.uk>:
>
>> ... However, when trying to take pictures of folk
>> at an event, for example, stitching multiple 36mm frames is no
>> substitute for have a 28mm lens.
>
> Depends on the event, how you shoot, and the stitching software --
> I've gotten some very good results in such cases.

Try making a pano out of an active dance floor, or the start of a motor
race! For static scenes, of course it can be useful, but it still
involves more work than the single shot.

David
 >> Stay informed about: Panasonic FZ-18 v LX-2 v TZ-3 

On Wed, 26 Dec 2007 21:45:37 GMT, "David J Taylor"
<david-taylor.DeleteThis@blueyonder.not-this-bit.nor-this-bit.co.uk> wrote in
<5Yzcj.68373$c_1.64595@text.news.blueyonder.co.uk>:

>John Navas wrote:
>> On Sat, 01 Dec 2007 06:53:07 GMT, "David J Taylor"
>> <david-taylor.DeleteThis@blueyonder.not-this-bit.nor-this-bit.co.uk> wrote in
>> <nx74j.55899$c_1.15257@text.news.blueyonder.co.uk>:
>>
>>> ... However, when trying to take pictures of folk
>>> at an event, for example, stitching multiple 36mm frames is no
>>> substitute for have a 28mm lens.
>>
>> Depends on the event, how you shoot, and the stitching software --
>> I've gotten some very good results in such cases.
>
>Try making a pano out of an active dance floor, or the start of a motor
>race!

There are of course cases where there's no effective substitute for a
wider lens.

>For static scenes, of course it can be useful, but it still
>involves more work than the single shot.

It works quite well in any image where seams can be placed on relatively
narrow bands with little or no motion. A dance floor or motor race
start can work well if (for example) all the fast action is in the
center frame. When extending 35 mm to 28 mm or even 24 mm, the extra
coverage side frames are relatively small with lots of overlap, making
that more likely. For me the amount of extra work is relatively small
-- from practice I've got the panning and shooting memorized, and the
stitching software is largely automatic.

--
Best regards,
John Navas
Panasonic DMC-FZ8 (and several others)
 >> Stay informed about: Panasonic FZ-18 v LX-2 v TZ-3 

John Navas wrote:
[]
> It works quite well in any image where seams can be placed on
> relatively narrow bands with little or no motion. A dance floor or
> motor race start can work well if (for example) all the fast action
> is in the center frame. When extending 35 mm to 28 mm or even 24 mm,
> the extra coverage side frames are relatively small with lots of
> overlap, making that more likely. For me the amount of extra work is
> relatively small -- from practice I've got the panning and shooting
> memorized, and the stitching software is largely automatic.

John, by the time you've taken your second frame at the start of a motor
race, all the cars will have gone!

David
 >> Stay informed about: Panasonic FZ-18 v LX-2 v TZ-3 

On Thu, 27 Dec 2007 09:07:01 GMT, "David J Taylor"
<david-taylor.DeleteThis@blueyonder.not-this-bit.nor-this-bit.co.uk> wrote in
<VWJcj.68520$c_1.67039@text.news.blueyonder.co.uk>:

>John Navas wrote:
>[]
>> It works quite well in any image where seams can be placed on
>> relatively narrow bands with little or no motion. A dance floor or
>> motor race start can work well if (for example) all the fast action
>> is in the center frame. When extending 35 mm to 28 mm or even 24 mm,
>> the extra coverage side frames are relatively small with lots of
>> overlap, making that more likely. For me the amount of extra work is
>> relatively small -- from practice I've got the panning and shooting
>> memorized, and the stitching software is largely automatic.
>
>John, by the time you've taken your second frame at the start of a motor
>race, all the cars will have gone!

Depends on the race and the framing. I shot the rolling start of a
NASCAR race in a center frame and filled in the side frames after the
cars were gone. Came out perfectly, nicely catching the turns and
packed stands. (I'd post it, but can't remember where it is in my
archives.) A standing start is of course dead easy. To be clear, I'm
NOT saying that I can address EVERY possible situation with stitching --
I'm just saying that it's not all or nothing, that there are quite a few
cases where stitching WILL work, especially when you're looking for
them.

--
Best regards,
John Navas
Panasonic DMC-FZ8 (and several others)
 >> Stay informed about: Panasonic FZ-18 v LX-2 v TZ-3 

John Navas wrote:
[]
> Depends on the race and the framing. I shot the rolling start of a
> NASCAR race in a center frame and filled in the side frames after the
> cars were gone. Came out perfectly, nicely catching the turns and
> packed stands. (I'd post it, but can't remember where it is in my
> archives.) A standing start is of course dead easy. To be clear, I'm
> NOT saying that I can address EVERY possible situation with stitching
> -- I'm just saying that it's not all or nothing, that there are quite
> a few cases where stitching WILL work, especially when you're looking
> for them.

Agreed, I use stitching all the time, both with DSLR and Compact cameras.

For a standing start, I will more often use movie mode to capture the
sound as well.

Cheers,
David
 >> Stay informed about: Panasonic FZ-18 v LX-2 v TZ-3 

On Thu, 27 Dec 2007 16:44:52 GMT, "David J Taylor"
<david-taylor.RemoveThis@blueyonder.not-this-bit.nor-this-bit.co.uk> wrote in
<8EQcj.68723$c_1.17239@text.news.blueyonder.co.uk>:

>John Navas wrote:
>[]
>> Depends on the race and the framing. I shot the rolling start of a
>> NASCAR race in a center frame and filled in the side frames after the
>> cars were gone. Came out perfectly, nicely catching the turns and
>> packed stands. (I'd post it, but can't remember where it is in my
>> archives.) A standing start is of course dead easy. To be clear, I'm
>> NOT saying that I can address EVERY possible situation with stitching
>> -- I'm just saying that it's not all or nothing, that there are quite
>> a few cases where stitching WILL work, especially when you're looking
>> for them.
>
>Agreed, I use stitching all the time, both with DSLR and Compact cameras.
>
>For a standing start, I will more often use movie mode to capture the
>sound as well.

With the FZ8 I can capture sound in still image mode, and movie mode has
much lower resolution.

--
Best regards,
John Navas
Panasonic DMC-FZ8 (and several others)
 >> Stay informed about: Panasonic FZ-18 v LX-2 v TZ-3