On Sun, 7 Oct 2007 18:23:36 -0400, "Mark B." <mbohntrash54 RemoveThis @comcast.net> wrote:
>"DaveS7" <dave_scenik7 RemoveThis @verizon.net> wrote in message
>news:LFcOi.7195$gC2.4780@trndny09...
>> I'm coming close to the point where I'll be able to buy an EOS-5D.
>> I really love macro shots of small subjects such as insects.
>> Using The Canon 100mm f/2.8 USM Macro lens, would I be able to fill the
>> entire image with a .25 inch (1/4 inch)
>> subject at the closest focus distance from the subject? If not, what would
>> be the smallest subject that would fill the entire image?
>> Does anyone know of a website where I could see this kind of info in
>> understandable language?
>> Thanks.
>>
>
>The Canon 100mm macro allows 1:1, or life size close-up. What this means is
>the you can can fill the frame with something the same size as the sensor,
>roughly 36mm x 24mm (roughly 1.4 x 0.94 inch).
>
>Mark
>
Good luck trying to get any respectable DOF out of any dslr macro lens. Don't
even bother hoping to use available-light only at smaller apertures when you do.
Not even the best dslr out there has clean ISOs high enough for that. Macro
photography is where any decent smallest-sensor P&S camera is the clear winner
over ANY dslr. P&S cameras beat the dslr for macro photography by a huge margin.
You'll do fine if all you are trying to focus on is the face of a stamp or coin
with a dslr + macro setup, but only if that surface is perfectly parallel to the
plane of the sensor. Be off by just a few degrees and you can kiss any focus at
one of the edges goodbye.
Here's a couple links that you will need if you go the dslr route for macro
photography:
http://www.hadleyweb.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/CZM/combinezm.htm
http://www.heliconsoft.com/heliconfocus.html
Keep them handy, bookmark them now.
Make sure your dslr has advanced focus-bracketing capability too in order to
make use of these post-processing methods to get any respectable DOF in your
photos. You'll need at least 5 or more focus-bracketing steps for shallower
subjects, preferable if you can set a greater amount of focus-steps on your
camera that you'll need for anything deeper than 1/2 inch. Or mount your dslr on
a focusing rail for each and every photo. Then adjust each focal-plane depth
manually for every frame that you'll have to take for stacking with the
aforementioned programs. Don't forget to calculate how many focal planes you'll
need to record to adequately cover the DOF available at your chosen f-stop for
the full depth of your subject.
Oh wait, that's right, only P&S cameras that can run CHDK are capable of doing
the fully automated focus-bracketing required for something like this, if you're
not going to use a the slow, manual, focusing-rail method.
Well, good luck anyway, you're going to need it. And try to not think too often
about how much money that you just spent going backward in macro-photography
capability. That's going to bother you much more than trying to get any DOF out
of it. Like a recurring nightmare every time you wonder why that insect leg or
antenna was out of focus, that petal and that stamen, or that gill and that fin,
again, and again, and again in every photo that you will ever try to take.
Been there, done that. Luckily it was a round-trip ticket when I finally
wizened-up and realized that I paid much more for much less. The dslr
macro-photography land is a fun place to visit (fun, in a "good thing I don't
live here" sort of way) but I sure wouldn't ever go back again. Nothing there is
in focus enough except for a few meager bits on everything you look at. Like
trying to read a For-Sale sign that said "F - l ". Another good analogy: the
amount of useful recorded information in dslr macro-photography is equivalent in
trying to watch a movie recorded at 1 frame every 2 minutes then played back at
the same frame-rate, just as enjoyable. I quickly walked out of that pathetic
movie and demanded my money back.
>> Stay informed about: Question about the Canon 100mm f/2.8 USM Macro lens